What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 amide or nicotinamide, is one of the most popular and versatile skincare ingredients. Suitable for all skin types, including children’s, it has the following benefits:
- Strengthens the skin barrier
- Improves hydration
- Balances sebum production
- Exhibits anti-inflammatory properties
It is a true multitasker that brings harmony and resilience back to the skin, providing both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits—though it can have downsides.
The challenges of traditional niacinamide
Most niacinamide in skincare is made through chemical synthesis. Recently, awareness has grown that synthetic niacinamide can contain residual niacin (nicotinic acid), a by-product formed during hydrolysis. These trace impurities can lead to flushing, redness, or irritation, particularly for sensitive skin. And high concentrations of synthetic niacinamide may even amplify these effects, contributing to further irritation.
Fermented niacinamide: A cleaner, safer alternative
Biotechnology-derived ingredients are gaining traction. Using microorganisms and enzymes, niacinamide can be produced without harsh chemicals or unwanted side reactions. This method reduces residual impurities and results in a purer, gentler form of niacinamide that is better tolerated by all skin types. Fermented niacinamide also improves bioavailability and biocompatibility, meaning the skin can absorb and utilise it more effectively.
Beyond skin benefits, the fermentation process is also more environmentally sustainable, avoiding the resource-intensive and harmful chemicals used in traditional synthetic production.
Many skincare products contain 2%, 5%, or even 10% niacinamide. It’s easy to assume that higher percentages are twice as effective, but in skincare, efficacy doesn’t scale linearly. Higher percentages don’t necessarily mean better results; they simply increase the strength of the application.
Higher concentrations may increase irritation risk, especially if residual impurities are present. This makes lower concentrations of purified or bio-fermented niacinamide more appealing for sensitive skin or conditions like redness and inflammation. Fermented niacinamide, on the other hand, contains fewer impurities, ensuring better tolerance and consistent results.
Overall, fermented niacinamide provides:
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Fewer impurities compared to synthetically produced niacinamide, reducing the risk of irritation.
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Gentler on sensitive skin, making it suitable for redness-prone or compromised skin.
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Improved bioavailability, allowing the skin to absorb and utilise vitamin B3 more effectively.
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Enhanced skin compatibility, thanks to the cleaner fermentation process.
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More sustainable production, avoiding harsh chemicals and reducing environmental impact.
How to spot fermented niacinamide in products
For anyone seeking to reduce redness, support sensitive skin, or simply choose a more compatible form of vitamin B3, fermented niacinamide is an excellent choice. But identifying fermented niacinamide on product labels can be tricky. Even when it is obtained through fermentation, if it is purified it may simply appear as “Niacinamide” on the INCI list. Look for phrases like “niacinamide produced by fermentation” or “bio-based niacinamide.” Non-purified fermented forms may be listed as “Saccharomyces/Niacinamide Ferment Filtrate.”
For further guidance, you can explore the ingredient database here or find useful tools in our article: Unfolding the ingredients label: A guide to decoding the INCI.
Beyond its skin benefits, fermented niacinamide represents a shift toward more mindful skincare. The process is cleaner, safer, and more sustainable, allowing formulators to create effective, compatible products that are also environmentally responsible.
